1. Can I purchase less than a 4’x 8’ sheet?
Because we sell primarily wholesale, we only sell in full sheet quantities, 4’x 8’ and larger.
2. How do I figure the total price of the veneer?
All of our veneer is sold per square foot. Therefore, when buying a 4’x 8’ sheet, it’s the square foot price times 32. 4’ x 10’ would be the square foot price times 40 and so on.
3. Can I stain veneer just like real wood?
Yes, you can because it is real wood! Once the veneer is applied, you can sand it and stain it just like you would any solid wood.
4. What type of glue should I use to hold the veneer in place?
The best glues to use are urea formaldehyde, white or yellow PVA (wood glue) or epoxy. With these glues, however, you must keep consistent pressure on the surface during the glue’s cure time by means of clamping or pressing in a hydraulic or vacuum press. If these pressing methods aren’t available to you, an instant bond can be achieved with contact cement and the appropriate veneer.
5. Do I need special tools to cut veneer?
Actually, flexible veneer cuts easily with a sharp razor knife, utility knife or scissors.
6. You call it flexible veneer. Will it bend around corners?
Yes, it will bend or conform to a radius. Use these general guidelines, but they may vary slightly depending on the wood species:
- 10 mil Paperback Veneer is the most flexible and can bend with the direction of the grain to a 1/2” radius or about the size of a magic marker.
- 22 mil or Bubble Free Veneer is a little stiffer. It will also bend in the same direction as the grain to a 1/2” radius.
- 3-ply or Wood On Wood Veneer will conform to a 3/4” radius.
- Phenolic Backed Veneer is even stiffer. It needs approximately 1 1/2” radius.
7. Can veneer be sanded?
Yes, you can sand veneer. Even though ours are sanded during manufacturing, finish sanding is recommended to achieve the best results when staining or clear coating.
8. Can veneer be pre-finished prior to installation?
Pre-finishing veneer can be done, but you must use a compatible, very flexible finish which won’t crack during installation. See Question 14 (below) for suggested finishes.
9. Can I apply a wood veneer to materials other than wood?
Wood veneer can be applied over wood, metal, fiberglass, plastic and many other substrates. Different substrates will require the use of different glues and, in some cases, veneers with different types of backers. See Question 18 (below) for information about backing materials.
10. If I order multiple sheets of veneer, will they match?
We make every effort to choose your veneer for best possible color match so these sheets will look similar. If you need veneers which must match exactly, please specify the veneer to be Sequence Matched.
11. What’s the difference between "book match" and "sequence match"?
Book Match refers to the way veneers are joined together to create one sheet. When making a sheet of veneer, many pieces of veneer, called “flitches,” are joined side by side to create the full width of the sheet. These flitches are used in pairs and opened like a book then joined together to create a mirror image which continues across the width of a sheet of veneer.
Sequence Match refers to a multiple of full sheets made from the same log which are identical in color and grain pattern, therefore repeating the same characteristics and identifying marks from one sheet to the next.
Visit our Veneer Matching Techniques page for more information.
12. What is raw veneer? Do you carry it?
Raw veneer is veneer that is sliced or rotary cut then dried, bundled and sold as a full flitch or individual “leaves” of veneer. We don’t carry raw veneer at Oakwood Veneer.
13. Why is there such a price difference between flexible veneer and raw veneer?
Flexible veneer goes through many processes which include cutting and trimming waste, joining and matching flitches, flexing, backing with a stabilizing material and sanding. The finished product is a beautiful sheet veneer which is easy to install and 100% ready to use. Because it is not trimmed, raw veneer yields less usable veneer and requires many steps to process it. These steps are time consuming and requires skill and patience.
14. What finishes work best with veneer?
We have found the finishes that work best with veneer are those with some flexibility properties. We recommend two-part polyurethanes, pre-mixed polyurethanes, acrylic urethanes, natural oil finishes, shellac, certain varnishes and lacquers.
Some post catalyzed lacquers and varnishes, normally used in production, may present problems because they are very hard and brittle. With these finishes, proper veneer choice and gluing methods are critical to overall results.
15. What if I buy a veneer and I don’t like it ?
We have a no hassle return policy and absolutely no re-stocking fee. We are the only company that offers a 100% Guarantee. We want you to be 100% satisfied.
16. What if I have problems installing the veneer?
Hopefully, you won’t have problems, but if you do, our website has tips and hints to help you. Call us toll free to speak with one of our experts.
17. If I decide to order veneer from Oakwood, how will it be shipped?
Most of our veneer is in stock and available for same day shipping if you place your order before 12:00 Noon EST. If there is any delay, we will call or email you. The veneer will be rolled, boxed and shipped via UPS or Fed-Ex. We guarantee delivery anywhere in the Continental United States in 2-3 business days.
18. What’s the difference between the various backing materials?
Different circumstances require different types of backed veneer. We offer several choices to fit your needs:
10 mil Paperbacked Veneer is the most economical. It is recommended for use with a vacuum press, hot or cold hydraulic press or ironing with wood glue.
22 mil Bubble Free Veneer can be used in all the above applications as well as with contact cement for those who don’t have pressing capabilities.
Phenolic Backed Veneer is ideal for use over less than perfect surfaces and under circumstances when extra durability and stability are required.
3-Ply Wood-On-Wood Veneer has very good durability and hiding characteristics, much the same as the phenolic, but it’s flexibility rivals that of the paper backed veneers. This makes it ideal for curved or radius work.
See our Products page for more information on these veneers and more.
19. How do I remove old veneer or is it even necessary?
It’s not always necessary to remove the old veneer but it should be intact, not bubbled or cracked, and firmly attached, if you are even considering veneering over it.
If you are forced to remove old veneer, a heat gun and a putty knife are essential tools. You must first apply heat to the edge of the veneer to loosen the glue. Then start with the putty knife under the edge and lift as you go. This process can be slow and the veneer will likely come off in small chunks. There are no shortcuts to removing the old veneer.
Once the veneer is removed, you must clean the entire surface of any glue residue and repair any deep scratches and gouges prior to re-veneering. Remember, any flaws in the surface can telegraph through the veneer and show up in your finished product.
20. I still have questions that aren't answered. What do I do?
If we haven't answered your questions on our site, call us toll free at 1-800-426-6018 during our regular business hours of 9:00 AM until 5:00 PM EST.
Our staff of experts are happy to help you. We have years of experience working with craftsmen who use our veneer products. We can also recommend other sources of information to you.