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Sanding edges with teak veneer

Sanding edges with teak veneer

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Question:

I am planning to teak veneer an MDF table top. I want to round over the edges of the table, and plan to cut my MDF shape, apply a 2” band of teak around the perimeter, apply the veneer, then rout the ends. I hope that this will give the appearance of a solid piece of teak since the veneer will blend into the rounded teak edges.

Now for my question: when I round the ends, it will be going through the veneer and the solid teak edging. Is there a backer on the veneer that is going to show or get in the way, or will I be able to blend the veneer into the teak edging just by sanding it smooth?

Thanks! Steve

Answer:

To answer your question: Yes, there is a backer on the veneer, but quite frankly, it shouldn’t be that conspicuous. What we’re talking about in terms of actual thickness is only .020″. Another point is the paper backing is going to be about the same color as the veneer. The only other option you have would be to leave the hardwood edge a little proud, about .030″ and butt the veneer to the edge. There’s also some obvious drawbacks to this in that you have to have a perfect butt joint, the height has to match well enough to allow sanding ( if you have a high spot you might actually sand through the veneer into the backing) and the veneer probably won’t match the color and grain of your hardwood. We suggest the easier and better way is to lay your veneer over and rout the edge just as you had planned. Good luck !

Oakwood Veneer Tech Support

Follow-up Question:

I appreciate the fast response. This will be my first time working with veneer, so this is all brand new to me. Glad to hear my plan seems to be sound.

One more question if you don’t mind. I don’t have access to to a press of any kind, so I think I have 2 options regarding adhesives…

1) Contact Cement – Seems like a good solution, but I was told that if you do any inlay work, contact cement has too much flexibility and may open up the joints. Not sure if it’s true or not, just what I’ve heard.

2) White or Yellow Glue – Should be easy enough to do, but I don’t have a press. I’d be forced to sandwich the veneer between 2 MDF boards and clamp and weigh it down with sandbags while it drys…not sure that would provide enough even pressure for good results.

Sorry to pepper you with questions, but this is a new area for me and I want to make sure I do it right.
Thanks again!

Answer:

As to contact cement it is a “live” glue line and there wil be some movement there as climate and temperature changes through the seasons so it is not a good choice for doing and kind of inlay, the other problem is you only get one shot at positioning you work. The biggest problem with using PVA type glues whether yellow of white can be open time. There are specific glues you can purchase that are designed to be used in veneering but you can also use standard PVA’s that have an extended open time. Here is the question, does one do the job with the best technique although the set up takes twice as long as the actual veneering process or does one cut corners to simply get the job done at the risk of veneer failure.

More times than not its the process that leads to success rather than simply getting to the destination.

Follow-up: Finished Projects
Well, I finally finished my Veneer projects, a triangular table to go behind a couch and an end-table. I have never worked with veneer before (and my woodworking skills are limited), but I’m real happy with how they turned out!

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