Site Information

 Loading... Please wait...

Veneering Stairways



I just bought a new house and want the stairs to look 100% wood. At this point, each step is made of ash, but the riser is just painted white on an unknown type of wood. In all your products, what type of veneer should I get to give the riser the look I want? What about the side? Can I apply a veneer there too? Bruno


You have a couple of options here: You could use Bubble Free Veneer (BFV) or veneer with a phenolic backer and apply it with contact cement. The only real drawback you’re faced with is the messy application of the contact cement.

The other option, which might work out better, would be to use the PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) veneer. You already have the 3M adhesive on the veneer so the mess is minimalized.

Neither method requires any special tools or skills. The key to success is getting a good bond by making sure you apply enough pressure once the contact is made. The best way to do this is with a veneer hammer or a simple stiff scraper like what is described on Oakwood Veneer’s Helpful Hints Page in the User Tips section.

You can do risers and stringers all the same way, if you wish. Once the veneer is installed, it will need to be finished to your personal preference. This doesn’t have to be a difficult project and with a little time and patience anyone can do it. We wish you luck!

Follow-Up Questions:

How do I finish the joint between the riser and the stringer?
How thick is the PSA veneer?
Can I just order online or do you have retailer in Montreal that carries it?
If I don’t like how it looks, can it be remove?
Will the glue cause any problems if I have to remove it? Bruno


About the best you can do at the joint and the stringer intersection is a good tight butt joint. The veneer isn’t very thick, approximately 1/32″, so any visible edge is barely noticeable.

Anyone can order through our online shopping cart or directly from us by phone or mail. We don’t sell or distribute through retailers because we don’t feel our customers would get enough information to have good success with our products. The whole idea is to get this veneer securely bonded so it doesn’t come off easily. Removing it can be dificult, but it’s possible. If the veneer is removed you will no doubt have adhesive residue to clean up.

Oakwood Veneer Tech Support

Veneering a table top with a veneer press

Question:I am planning a kitchen area dining table (daily use). I have a couple of questions that hopefully someone will have some feedback on:I have a veneer vacuum press which I plan to use for veneering the table top. I’m planning on edging the table with either black dyed hardwood or anodized aluminum channel. I’ve [...]

Read More »

Help on veneer selection

Question:I have a job that the designer wants done to match a sample of pecan he gave me. I got a sheet of hickory which was said to be close to pecan. The problem is the designer does not like the dark and light that hickory has. Sigh. What wood species has similar graining and [...]

Read More »

Can I mix raw with paperbacked veneers?

Question:I have a several sheets of raw veneer, 1/42″ thick, that I would like to use on the visible parts of furniture. The substrate will be 3/4″ birch plywood. Since I don’t know how 10 mil compares to 1/42″, can I safely use the 10 mil paperback veneer as backing?Answer:You can feel comfortable using 10 [...]

Read More »

Rotary Cut vs. Flat Cut Birch

Question:Hello, I’m wondering if the differences between Rotary White Birch, 1 Piece Face, Rotary White Birch with Seams, and Flat Cut White Birch is in the color, or just the pattern of the grain?The images on your site look like the rotary has a completely different color. I’m interested in the white birch not [...]

Read More »

How to Finish Veneer?

Question:My plan is to spray some lacquer, Magalac. I’m pretty new at finishing, but I’ve seen it done many times and am confident I can get a good steady spray.I’d like to describe the way I’m gonna do it, and how I’ve been told to do it and see if there are any problems or [...]

Read More »

Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets

Question:I was going to redo my kitchen (tear everything out) when I saw a DIY show about veneer. Really nothing wrong with my cabinets except they are too dark. I would like to veneer with birch.I will be doing this project solo. I was going to buy several large sheets so I’d have no seams. [...]

Read More »

To stain or veneer?

Question:I am a working on a DIY project matching up my range hood which I have built with black kitchen cabinets. The hood is made of remnants, two kinds of wood, red oak and maple?Will I get two different shades if staining two different woods with a black stain or should I just use a [...]

Read More »

Veneer Thick Enough for Making Bass Guitars?

Question:I don’t know if you have a product that will work for what I would like to do. I make bass guitars and need a product that I can use to cover the back of my basses.I need a product about 1/8″ – 3/16″ in thickness that I can laminate on the back of the [...]

Read More »

“Slight” and “Yes” Red Oak Veneer Grading

Question:In the HPVA spec’s for Red Oak Veneer In A grade Vine Marks are listed as slight and In B grade they are listed as yes. My question is what is the definition of “slight” and “yes” as it pertains to the standards? I have a few sheets of B grade Red Oak PS BM [...]

Read More »